|
Date: May 2004
Location: Western Downs, Queensland Australia
The first thing you notice about Roma
when you fly in is the absolute flatness of the country. With sprinklings of green
from the last brief rains in June, the land is looking remarkably good considering
the drought, but the colour won't last long once the heat sets in.
We'd come in on the early flight to make it in good time for twice weekly cattle
sales at the Bungil Cattle Yards outside town. The largest in the Southern Hemisphere
with cattle coming from as far afield as the Northern
Territory and Coober Pedy, they were
also the inspiration behind the recent national award winning Queensland memento,
cow-print handbags, by Roma designers Susan Klein and Leona Collins.
The sales are held every Tuesday and Thursday from 9 am and everyone is welcome, agents, farmers and on-lookers. There were only 3000 head of cattle this day, a small sale when the numbers are regularly around 8-10,000, but it was still a sight worth seeing. It's a fast procedure as the auctioneer and his two bid spotters work their way along the walkways, stopping to sell off each pen.
For the uninitiated, the animals are sold on a per kilo price, so a pen of heifers might go for $2.10 a kilo each. After the sale they are moved to weighbridge, weighed and the total price of the sale tallied. Their new owners then take them home as breeders or to fatten them up and resell in the future.
Apparently older visitors often wonder at the low price being offered per kilo when they are paying up to 10 times more in the shops. The youngsters pick out an animal, give it a name and want to take it home with them.
Next stop was the Condamine Pub where we enjoyed a great meal, friendly company and a quick wander down the road to the replica Condamine Bell. The bells are now collectors items, but were once used by the bullocky's to locate their beasts.
At Nelgai, the fabulous B & B just outside town, our hosts were David and Priscilla Mundell and their pets, Norah the Condamine bitser and Archie the Siamese cat. David has lived in the area all his life and Priscilla, his Scottish born wife, met him when she was nannying on the property next door. David is vice-president of the Miles Historical Village and an avid collector of the bells, while Priscilla is a well-known local artist and her baby as she calls it is the Myall Park Botanic Gardens near Glen Morgan.
Nelgai is a low-set, sprawling, homestead filled with splendid furniture. The main area of the house is painted a surprisingly appealing pale crimson - the dry surrounds of the drought-ridden land frustrated Priscilla so she decided the house needed some colour. Guests can stay in a queen size bedroom with ensuite at the front of the house, or in a room at the back in the original part of the homestead. The twin room comes complete with beds from the old Miles hospital, but the mattresses are new.
Nelgai is not a farmstay, it is a country B & B experience and for couples, individuals or small groups who have the time to give Nelgai and its hosts the chance to work their magic.
People often don't realise how far we are from Brisbane and end up arriving late in the afternoon and then have to take off again early in the morning without really spending any time here, said Priscilla.
There are plenty of treasures to explore - gardens to wander through, David's mini-museum to explore, and an afternoon billy tea and damper to enjoy by the lagoon with its amazing collection of birdlife. The damper melts in your mouth, and the tea which must be taken black (you are allowed sugar), is delicious.
Priscilla is a firm believer in using local and home grown produce and dessert that night included a topping of plump mulberries we picked before dinner. Pre-dinner nibbles over a local wine were home grown vegetable crudits and a dip including lemon myrtle.
At Priscilla's urging, we called in at Myall Park Botanic Garden on the way to St George. For anyone remotely interested in native plants, this place is a must. Only 7 km from Glenmorgan, it was here that the famous Robyn, Sandra and Merinda Gordon grevilleas were developed. The original Robyn is still growing strong in the middle of the gardens.
The gardens were developed by amateur botanist David Gordon, AM in the 1940s on the ridge behind his home. He and his family spent the 1950s gathering seeds and cutting of Australia plants from all over the continent, which they then propagated and then planted over an area, which covers more than 130 hectares. Many species planted by Dave are now extremely rare and sometimes extinct in their own natural habitat.
Don't come expecting a landscaped, manicured garden - this is strictly bushscape with the collected plants (many of which are named, except for those stolen by the birds) growing throughout. David and his wife, Dorothy, are no longer alive, but the gardens live on.
There is basic accommodation available on-site, including in the recently renovated overseers cottage. The Myall Park Gallery was built onsite in 1994 and houses works from Dorothy's Australian wildflower paintings. The small gallery shop sells beautiful local art and craft and the colourful mural adorning the outside of the building was developed over the internet by a collection of artists who then each painted their bit on the wall.
St George's greatest attraction is surely the majestic Balonne River, which flows down the edge of the town. The scenic walk along the town side of the river is peaceful and pretty and the eastern side has been developed into welcoming parkland. River cruises are popular, and boats and canoes are also available for hire.
Hidden within the town limits behind the Balonne Sports Store is an egg collection that has to be seen to be believed. The Unique Egg is a collection of hand-carved emu eggs displayed in specially designed cabinets and mounted upon lights so they are illuminated. The carvings are so popular they have been displayed at World Expos, Commonwealth and Olympic Games.
The work is so fine it is hard to believe it has all been carried out freehand
using a blade, except for the minute holes in the some of eggs which have been
drilled. A newly formed Heritage
Trail, the Rosehill Aviaries and the Heritage Centre are other attractions
worth visiting.
On the edge of town, the Riversands Winery
also offers visitors a cool, leafy place to enjoy coffee and cake in their outdoor
caf, after they have sample the wines. Venue for the annual Jazz in the Vineyard
celebrations in October, owners Alison and David Blacket make all their wine from
grapes they have grown at the winery and then send them to Ballandean near Stanthorpe
for bottling.
Grapes are big business in St George, and this winery
has won its share of award the most recent being the Cairns Wine Show Bronze Medal
for the Major Mitchell White & Explorer's Chardonnay and a Silver Medal for the
Black Magic Port.
Wine State has also given them a three star rating for the Beardmores Dry 2004, Major Mitchell White and Stirlings Reserve Red Liquor Muscat. The Major Mitchell was also named one of the Top 40 Best Value Australian Wines under $15.
The Nindigully Hotel is 45 km from St George and is much loved by locals. Resting next to the Moonie River, the pub was established in 1864 and operated as a Cobb and Co changeover station through to the early 1900s. Believed to hold one of the longest liquor licences in Queensland, the building has changed little although a fresh coat of paint and careful restoration are underway. Accommodation is available in the hotel and it is also a popular spot for travellers who camp across the road and call in for a drink, dinner and if necessary to use the showers supplied free for their use.
Having survived the night without a hangover, quite a feat given the hospitality at the pub, it was time for the homeward leg back to the airport via Surat, 70 kms from Roma.
Surat may be small, it has a population of 800 living with in the town and about 1000 people in the surrounding district, but in terms of pride it should be larger than Brisbane, and in fact is older, being established back in 1846.
The highlights of the town are without the doubt the Cobb and Co Changing Station,
home to the Visitor Centre, Museum, Art Gallery and fresh water aquarium, the
River, also the Balonne, and the new river walk along its banks, and Villacoola
winery.
The Museum and Art Gallery are a tribute to the history of the area, the dedication of the staff and volunteers who have put it together and the creativity of the locals. Last year more than 16,000 people passed through its doors, most independent travellers. Accommodation in Surat is available at a B & B, in the local motel complete with a beautiful Queenslander house and a caravan park with cabins.
The old Shire Hall, which was built in 1882, is the most photographed building in town, fishing, camping and bird watching are popular local activities given the proximity of the river and in the early months of the year the waterlilies at Beranga Creek, 3.5 kms along the old coach route are a must. On the way you will pass by The Corduroys, the remains of Cobb & Co's version of a sealed road, boardwalks of cypress pine saplings.
For more information on the Western Downs visit http://www.westerndownsholidays.info/ or call Toowoomba and Golden West Regional Tourist Association on 1800 688 949 to obtain your copy of the Western Downs Touring Guide and their new Fishing and Camping in Queensland's Western Downs.
Getting there:
Qantas Link flies to Roma daily from Brisbane
and hire cars are available from Avis at the airport. Macair fly in and out of
St George two times a week.
Roma is approximately five hours drive, 480km from Brisbane on the Warrego Highway. The quality of the roads in this area is very good.
For more information:
Toowoomba and Golden West Tourism Association
Tel +61 7 4632 1988
- By Adrienne Costin
|
|
