Date: May 2005
Location: Western Downs, Queensland Australia
Those hobbits knew a thing or two about house design. Outside the temperature is a chilly two degrees but here in my underground hideaway at Possum Park 20km north of Miles, I'm as warm as the proverbial slice of cooked bread; a latter-day Frodo Baggins preparing for his next battle with the Dark Lord Sauron.
Like Hobbiton, (the underground hobbit village
of Lord of the Rings fame), Possum Park, or RAAF Kowguran Central Reserve Explosive
Store as it was called during World War II, has also known the dark forces of
evil.
It was the main munitions site on the Brisbane Line, a last-ditch line of defence against the advancing Japanese, consisting of accommodation and administration facilities and 20 concrete underground bunkers which held thousands of tonnes of bombs and munitions. The normal strength of the unit was about 60 airmen and officers.
After the defeat of the Japanese in the Coral Sea, the ammunition was not needed and in 1957 the depot was disbanded (the explosives had been transferred in 1951) and all but the underground bunkers and two small brick buildings sold for removal.
In 1985 local farmers David and Julie Hinds bought the disused bunkers on 150 hectares of land and renamed the site Possum Park.
"I had come here to break in some horses," David recalls. "The owner showed us the site. It was just an overgrown paddock with 20 derelict bunkers scattered around. When we bought it, our friends said we were mad."
The plan was to work the property as a weekend retreat and use a couple of bunkers as accommodation for family and friends, but that changed when they sold their farm and sat down to consider the next stage of their lives.
"The winter that year was wet and cold, but the bunkers were so warm and cosy," says David. "Their potential was enormous."
Many of the underground bunkers have been converted into modern self-contained motel-style units for tourist accommodation while some of the larger bunkers are used as a morning tea room, souvenir shop and rest facilities for bus tours. Another bunker has been set aside for a history display of 3CR RAAF Kowguran between 1942 and 1956.
A few years ago some of the men based at the depot during the war returned for an ANZAC Day service and reunion. "They thought it was great and we still see them from time to time," says David.
Snug in winter and cool in summer, the bunkers can accommodate up to four people. They have an electric stove, microwave oven, fridge, television, queen-sized bed and one or two single beds. All are carpeted and most have a small lounge and outside seating areas.
Possum Park also offers accommodation in superbly restored train carriages which date back to the 1950s. In keeping with the troop theme, the carriages, station sidings (from which you can sit and view the surrounding bush; there are 3.5km of walking tracks) and fittings reflect the 1940s, though the interiors have all the mod-cons such as television, fridge, electric stove and good-sized shower.
A camp area caters for up to 50 people and the caravan park has 20 powered sites. For campers, there is a modern amenity block with handicap facilities, barbecue, undercover kitchen area, laundry and wet-weather sleeping shed.
Underground bunkers, troop trains: what next?
"We are looking for an aircraft fuselage, preferably from a Hercules, to fit in with an air force theme," says David. "If anyone out there has one we would love to hear from them."
Possum Park is a handy base from which to explore the surrounding area. To the
south, the Miles and District Historical Museum is considered one of the finest
in Australia, with more than 20 old buildings
relocated from the surrounding district. The village also features a world class
shell collection and lapidary display as well as war museum.
Just south of Miles, Condamine on the Condamine River is home to the famous Condamine or Bullfrog Bells and is also a good fishing spot.
Dulacca west of Miles was closely connected with attempts to control the prickly pear. At one time, the government offered an incentive of 40,000ha of land in the area to anyone who could restore the land to its original state. The Dulacca Hotel, known as the Waterhole on the Hill, goes back to 1908.
Wandoan north of Possum Park on the Leichardt Highway has a 23-point Heritage Trail which includes the restful Waterloo Plains Environmental Park with lakes, picnic areas and water birds.
For more information:
Possum Park
David & Julie Hinds
Tel +61 7 4627 1651
Toowoomba and Golden West Tourism Association
Tel +61 7 4632 1988
- By Scott Jones
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