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Date: April 2004
Location: Wet Tropics, Queensland Australia
As baths go, it was probably the best one I had in my life, offering a stunning
view of a world heritage-listed wilderness.
I turned on piping hot water, filled the tub with bubbles, settled in and sipped a Crown Lager.
A large floor-to-ceiling picture window offered a private look into one of the
world's great wonders - the Daintree rainforest in Tropical
North Queensland.
The forest cascaded down a slope right to my window, a tussle of palm fronds and fungi-blotched tree trunks.
Louvres could be opened and they let in the sounds of the rainforest: the gentle chirp of crickets and the chattering of birds. A puff of breeze brought in an earthy but fragrant smell. Probably the freshest air one could inhale.
I decided my Daintree room at the Coconut Beach Rainforest Lodge was aptly
named, the rainforest being at my fingertips.
The cosy, timber-lined room came complete with a pleasant balcony, king-sized bed, mini-bar and CD player but no TV. Who would want to destroy all this pristine peace with The Price is Right?
My bath felt extra good because I was soaking off salt gained from a trip to the Great Barrier Reef earlier that day.
The Coconut Beach Rainforest Lodge, operated by Voyages Hotels and Resorts, runs
a cruise boat to the reef from the Cape
Tribulation beach.
Even the coach transfer to the beach was a highlight: thick rainforest pressed against the road, tall jungle-clad mountains to the left with their tops shrouded in cloud.
We ventured to the Odyssey H2O cruise boat via rubber duck and were soon powering out to Mackay reef, only 45 minutes offshore.
My companions opted to scuba dive, assisted by the friendly and efficient crew, while I snorkelled over the coral outcrops and multitudes of fish - a teeming metropolis of colour.
A school of parrot fish chomped on the reef algae and their chewing crackled in my ears; little black fish looked up at me and flapped their fins as though annoyed at this impertinent stranger. I followed a sleek stingray - grey and spotted with blue - as it glided below.
On my way back to the ship, I saw a mass of black and white clown fish floating around a little outpost of coral in the sand. I duck-dived to get a closer look and they all darted into the coral, drifting out again as I drew up for air.
Back on shore and emerging from the bath, it was time for a real treat - dinner
in the lodge's huge, timber pavilion right behind the beach. With fresh barramundi
on the menu, I decided life could hardly get better than this.
While Cape Tribulation is as natural
place as you'll find, we spent the earlier part of our trip in nearby Cairns
city, staying at the luxurious Matson Resort.
My divine hotel suite overlooked the city and the tall, green mountains beyond. Other rooms looked out over Trinity Inlet to the Coral Sea.
The main section of Cairns' Esplanade is a pleasant 15 minutes walk away along the foreshore boardwalk. Those who haven't been to Cairns for a couple of years will be amazed at the beautiful swimming lagoon, replete with lounging backpackers and families, and the number of al fresco eateries and restaurants that have expanded along the strip.
On this early evening, plenty of people were lounging at the tables, drinking coffee or wine, adding to the relaxing tropical ambience for which Cairns is renowned.
Back at the Matson Resort, we dined in the complex's award-winning signature restaurant, Crystal Trig, and were suitable impressed with the three course petite menu that offered six dishes. I particularly liked the Atlantic salmon cured in beetroot and ginger and the cumquat pudding.
Feeling gastronomically complete, it was only a short elevator ride to my room and the comfy queen-sized bed.
For more information on Coconut Beach Rainforest Lodge and Odyssey H20, phone
1800 816 525 or go to http://www.voyages.com.au/.
For information on the Matson Resort Cairns, go to http://www.matsonresort.com.au/
or phone 07 4031 2211. For holiday bookings to Tropical North Queensland, phone
the Queensland Travel Centre on 13 88 33 or go to http://www.queenslandholidays.com.au/.
- By Shaun O'Dowd
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