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Date: May, 2004
Location: Thailand

   Since the first order of business was getting healthy, I flew right through Bangkok straight to the beaches of Phuket, where a San Fransisco-ite I had done the 160-meter bungee jump with (four times!) was doing a scuba diving course. For less than $4 a night, we shared a two-bed, air-conditioned room that included DVD viewing!

After four days of laying in the sun and eating seafood for EVERY meal, I was back to 100%. Overall, Phuket was very nice, especially the views. However, there were few backpackers among the old Western men with young Thai women and/or lady-boys (yes, your assumption of what that is is probably correct!), and it was much more developed than we had hoped for so we moved onto Koh Phi Phi, an island best known for being the location of "The Beach."

Although it too was rather developed, Koh Phi Phi was full of backpackers and, more importantly, off-limits to any motorized transportation! The area between the two main beaches was only a seven-minute walk so we made some good friends in the four days we spent there, including an Englishman, with whom I ultimately traveled until he left Bangkok a couple of days ago.

From Koh Phi Phi, it was onto Koh Lanta, an island that didn't even make my guide book but one I had been told I couldn't miss. As soon as we got there, I knew immediately it was what I had been looking for in Thailand! We had our own bungalows with electricity, running water, a mosquito net and a fan ... all for $2.50 a day. They were situated on an extended family's property so we were quite literally living with them. Each "resort" was fairly spread out along the beach, and none of the ones we visited had any more than a few guests so the ones we did meet we very quickly bonded with.

The highlight of Koh Lanta, WITHOUT A DOUBT, was the sunsets. I was never been a sunset kind of guy, but I was immediately converted after the first one I saw! The sun sets just south of the islands of Ko Phi Phi so they are in full view when the sun falls, and the sky BURSTS full of color. Again, words cannot come anywhere near doing it justice so be sure to check out the pictures!

From Koh Lanta, it was onto the beaches of Krabi. They were similar to Koh Phi Phi in the sense that there was no motorized transportation, but they were much more "resorty." Fortunately, the beaches are blessed with some AMAZING rock formations. We spent a day climbing to a hidden lagoon deep in the rainforest and swimming through partially-underwater caves. Some of it was more dangerous than we probably should have done, but we came away with just a few cuts and bruises so it was well worth it!

From the beaches of Krabi, we headed east over the mainland and onto a night ferry to an island called Koh Tao. The night ferry ride was especially interesting as we rode with live pigs that were snorting in cages at the front of the boat! We ended up spending two nights on a quite beach and almost a week on a more lively beach.

Koh Tao is known as a scuba diving island, but I only did one dive (a night dive!) and had the time of my life! It was really quite during the day, but there was a GREAT scene every night. For the first time in my life, I think I learned what the word "relaxation" really means. I even spent one full day at a spa, which included a sauna, aloe vera body wrap, one-hour Thai massage and facial ... all for $20!

In the middle my two stays on Koh Tao, we spent a couple of nights on the island of Koh Pha Ngan. It is best known for the Full-Moon Party so we made sure to be there for it. Each month on the night of the full moon, 10,000-plus backpackers congregate on one of its beaches for a night of dancing to the music of famous DJs from around the world. My favorite memory of the night was dancing on the beach when it was POURING rain. Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures because of the rain, but the ones I did take should give you a fairly good idea of the scene!

On the way back to Bangkok, I went to Burma to be able to extend my Thai visa when I crossed back in (unfortunately, I wasn't in Burma any longer than 15 minutes). Arriving into Bangkok on the night bus at 5 AM, my first impression was one of pleasant surprise. I guess my experience in India now guides my expectations of third-world countries because I find Bangkok to actually be quite nice. Yes, it is polluted, and getting anywhere by car takes FOREVER, but Bangkok's infrastructure is very impressive, and if one is brave enough, he/she can zip through traffic on the back of a motorbike taxi, usually for less than $1. Many backpackers who have done so, like myself, have been graced with the "Southeast Asia tattoo," a burn on one's right calf from touching it to the exhaust pipe. I have had mine for two weeks, and it is just now healing!

My positive impression of Bangkok also might have a little something to do with the fact that I am staying with a friend of mine from Emory, Dave Byne, who has been able to give me insider info on the city and let me stay in the spare room of his amazing, AIR-CONDITIONED apartment. As has been the case for most of my trip, I am not sure what I am doing even as far ahead as tomorrow, but I will probably trek for three days in northern Thailand before heading down Laos, across Cambodia and up Vietnam into China. I know I keep writing this, but REALLY, my words cannot do most of this justice so be sure to check out the picture links. A lot of the pictures are out of order, but they should give you a fairly good idea of the things I have seen and experienced the past two-plus months!

- Greg

For the next leg of Greg's around the world trip, click here... Or if you want to see what he was up to before this tale, click here...