Name: Isle Royal National Park
Location: Michigan, United States
What's it like?
Isle Royale National Park is a United
States National Park comprised of Isle Royale and the surrounding
waters and small islands, a wilderness preserve in northwest Lake
Superior. It's easily identified on maps of the Great Lakes: Lake
Superior resembles the profile of a snarling wolf; Isle Royale
is the eye. Although it's closer to Ontario,
Canada, or
even Minnesota,
USA, it's part of
the state of Michigan.
Its French name might lead you to pronounce it "eel roy-AL", but
the common pronunciation is the very midwestern "ile ROY-ul".
Understand
Isle Royale is currently a wilderness preserve first, a sanctuary
for those seeking to experience it second, and a travel destination
third. Although it accommodates all of these uses, that's the order of
priority they take. So wildlife gets the run of the island, and human
visitors are generally restricted to established trails and accessible
lakes, with leave-no-trace camping
protocols in effect. Modern conveniences and comforts are very limited;
away from the small ports on either end of the island, "running water"
means "a creek", and only "outhouse" pit toilets are available. (Many
of the more accessible ones are stocked with toilet paper, but bring
your own or be prepared to improvise.)
Lake Superior winters close the park from November through
mid-April, with limited access before Memorial Day and after Labor Day;
Isle Royale is the only U.S. National Park Service park to shut down
altogether for the winter. Because of this, along with its geographic
isolation and challenging ruggedness, it receives fewer visitors in a
year (17,500 in 2005) than many national parks endure in a day. Those
visitors stay a remarkable average of 4-5 days each (even
counting day-trippers), but it still has one of the lowest
visitors-per-square-mile figures outside of the huge
Alaskan parks.
Which is, of course, a large part of its appeal. And it leaves these
visitors wanting more; with the NPS's highest return-visit rate.
History
Over four millennia ago, Native Americans began visiting Isle Royale
to dig for copper, to tap maple trees for sugar, and to fish. Since
Europeans came to the area, it's been host to whitefish fisheries, a
series of unprofitable copper mining efforts, and a resort community
around 1900. In the 1920s, Detroit News journalist Albert Stoll
Jr. visited Isle Royale, saw what commercial exploitation was beginning
to do to undermine the wilderness, and campaigned for its protection; a
plaque in his honor was later placed near the tip of Scoville Point.
Isle Royale National Park was established by Congress in 1931, and the
last of the land de-privatized in 1940 (with a few of the land owners
given lifetime leases). The archipelago was designated a Wilderness
Area in 1976, and named an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980.
Landscape
The archipelago (consisting of Isle Royale itself and dozens of
smaller islands) is the edge of a geologic fault which pushed up from
the lake floor and was scoured by ice-age glaciers into a long, ridged
island, with lakes and inlets of Lake Superior filling in low points
between some of the ridges. The south sides of these ridges and the
south lakeshore tend to be more gently sloped; the north sides and
lakeshore more steep. Crossing from one side of the island to the other
isn't usually a great distance, but because of the ridges can involve a
lot of climbing and descending.
The island and its ridges run roughly WSW-to-ENE end to end,
but for informal navigational purposes they're usually described as if
they ran directly west-to-east (a notion reinforced by the orientation
of the park service's official map). When using a compass, keep in mind
the island's true orientation. The Greenstone Ridge runs the length of
the island, with a trail along most of its crest. Isle Royale itself is
45 miles (74 km) long and 9 miles (14 km) at its widest, with an area
of about 205 mi� (530 km�). The highest point on the island is Mount
Desor at 1394 feet (425 m) above sea level � about 800 feet (245 m)
above lake level � with several other spots along the Greenstone above
1200 feet (365 m) in elevation.
Flora and fauna
The island is mostly forested in a mixture of boreal and northern
hardwood ecosystems, with a selection of conifer (spruce, fir, pine)
and deciduous (birch, aspen, maple, ash) trees. Past human habitation
has left some apple trees behind. Marsh vegetation is more common in
the west, but found in low spots everywhere. A wide variety of orchids
and wildflowers can be found throughout the island. Berries grow wild;
blueberries can be found on open ridge tops, and thimbleberries (with
maple-like leaves bigger than your hand; white flowers in early summer,
red berries in late summer) grow seemingly everywhere.
The island is far enough from the mainland and small enough in area to limit the variety of animals on it; there are no
bears, deer, raccoons, nor cats of any kind. Around 1900, moose
introduced themselves to the island, presumably swimming from Ontario.
Wolves followed later, crossing increasingly rare safe ice bridges in
1948 and 1967. As a closed environment, the island serves as a prime
field study of the relationship between prey and predator. Because the
wolf population is descended from two small packs, the island also
demonstrates the effects of inbreeding on their viability. Both
populations have gone through booms and busts due to weather, disease,
food availability, and predation (the past several summers' heat has
brought the February 2007 moose population way down to 385, with 21
wolves trying to subsist on the survivors), but they still endure.
Other common mammals are red foxes (filling the scavenger
niche, especially around camp sites), beavers (in inland lakes and
ponds), red squirrels (everywhere), snowshoe hares, and otters. Loons,
eagles, and ospreys nest on the island, and a large variety of
songbirds, woodpeckers, and aquatic birds (especially gulls and ducks)
will be seen. Painted turtles, garter snakes, and a few varieties of
amphibians are common. Northern pike are plentiful in most of the
inland lakes, along with varieties of trout, perch, walleye, and other
sport fish. Mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and a few varieties of biting flies
are unfortunately abundant, though the extent of these nuisances varies
year to year, by season, and from one locale to another. Insect
repellent is essential, and a face net will provide welcome relief when
the bugs seem intent on driving you crazy even when your bug dope
prevents them from landing. There are bees on the island as well.
Climate
At a latitude of 48�North, and with the moderating influence of cold Lake Superior, Isle Royale rarely gets hot
by human standards. During the summer months you'll reach
shorts-and-t-shirt weather in the afternoon, especially hiking up on
the ridges, but you'll also experience some rather chilly nights,
sometimes even below 50�F (10�C) in the "heat" of August. In May and
October, temperatures can easily dip below freezing by night and stay
below 60�F (15�C) all day. Rainfall fluctuates from month to month, but
July and August have the least overcast days (making them the busiest
weeks of the summer). Regardless, a stay of several days any time of
the summer without at least some rain is uncommon; either bring
rain gear or plan on spending time stuck in your tent or a shelter. The
good news for people with hayfever is that they'll find few common
pollen allergens in the air. (During its resort days, the island was a
popular haven for allergy sufferers.) In the winter, conditions are
inhospitable and the island is closed to all but wildlife researchers.
Even the park headquarters relocate to Houghton for the winter.
Get in
By ferry
Almost all visitors get to and from Isle Royale via scheduled ferry services:
- Ranger III - National Park Service, Houghton,
Michigan
+1 906-482-0984. [2]
165 ft vessel. Travel time: 6 hours. Operates June thru mid-August,
departing Tu/F and returning W/Sa. Adults $54 one-way, children
under 12 $24 one-way, canoes/kayaks $21-$55 one-way, motorboats
$80 and up one-way.
- Isle Royale Queen IV - Isle Royale Ferry Service, Copper Harbor, Michigan +1 906-289-4437. [3]
100 ft vessel. Travel time: 3.0-3.5 hours. Operates mid-May thru
September; daily mid-July thru mid-August, but progressively less
frequent earlier and later in the season. Adults $62 one-way ($54
off-peak), children under 12 half price, canoes/kayaks $25 one-way.
Single-day round-trip fares were recently introduced and vary in price,
depending on availability.
- Wenonah - Grand Portage Isle Royale Transportation Line, Grand Portage, Minnesota +1 651-653-5872, toll-free: +1 888-746-2305 Nov. through Apr, 218-475-0024 May through Oct. [4]
65 ft vessel. Travel time: 2.5-3.0 hours. Operates daily, mid-June thru
mid-September. Adults $59 one-way, children $39 one-way, canoes/kayaks
$30-$34 one-way, Adults $49 children $27 single-day round-trip.
- Voyageur II - also GPIR.]http://www.isleroyaleboats.com]
60 ft vessel. 1-888-746-2305 & 651-653-5872 Oct-May 218-475-0024
May-Oct. Travel time: 2.0-2.5 hours. Operates May thru mid-October,is
the only vessel providing pick-up&drop-off service around the
entire island, departing M/W/Sa and returning Tu/Th/Su, but with less
frequent service before Memorial Day and after mid-September. $59
one-way ($69 for destinations beyond Windigo), canoes/kayaks $30-$34
one-way. US Mail and parcel service to Isle Royale
Advance reservations are strongly recommended for all ships,
especially in late July and early August. Whether you're traveling
across the depths of Superior from Michigan, or on the ferries from
nearer Minnesota, take precautions for motion sickness if you're not a
seasoned sailor. In the uncommon event of dangerous weather, crossings
may be delayed, but they're almost never canceled. The Queen and Wenonah and Voyageur II both offer discounted fares for day-trips
to the park, which give you about 3-4 hours on the island. Note that
Isle Royale is at the western extreme of the Eastern time zone, but the
Minnesota-based ferries operate on Central time.
The ferries from Michigan dock at Snug Harbor, an inlet
of Rock Harbor near the east end of the island; this is the largest
"civilized" area on the island. Because Rock Harbor Lodge, Rock Harbor
campground, and Rock Harbor Visitor Center are located here, this site
is commonly referred to as "Rock Harbor", even though that technically
refers to the whole miles-long stretch of water. The ferries from
Minnesota dock at Windigo, a smaller port at the west end of
the island. Each port has a small camp store, drinking water, modern
restrooms, pay showers, and coin laundry; these are the only such
facilities in the park.
A new service being offered in the 2008 season will be several day-trips to Windigo by the Ranger III.
This is primarily to allow hikers to the length of the island one-way.
Schedules will provide time to land at either Windigo or Rock Harbor
and cross the island with a return to Houghton. This feat could only be
achieved in the past by booking a one-way trip to Windigo on the Voyageur II in addition to the Ranger III fare.
By floatplane
Floatplane service is available from Houghton. It's considerably
more expensive than the ferries, but the trip takes a fraction of the
time, and offers nice aerial views. The plane can dock at either port,
and since it can make multiple crossings in a day, this can give you
some flexibility with the time of day you arrive and leave. Stove fuel
can't be transported by air, so if you're camping you'll have to buy
that on the island.
- Royale Air Service, Houghton County Memorial Airport, 23810 Airpark Blvd, Laurium, MI 49913, +1 218-721-0405, [5]
Travel time: 35 minutes. Operates M-Sa, mid-May thru mid-September.
$260/person round-trip, $180/person one-way, reservations required.
By private boat
Private motorboats also come to the island, mostly from nearby Thunder Bay, Ontario.
All boats (of whatever nationality) coming from Canada are required to
check in with U.S. Customs at Windigo or Snug Harbor. Sanitation and
fuel services are also available at these ports. To protect the island
wildlife from diseases and disruption, pets are not permitted on boats
within the park boundaries.
Fees/Permits
A fee of $4 per calendar day on the island is charged for visitors
12 years and older, and to save time upon arrival is collected en route
by the services providing transportation to and from the island. Park
visitors are required to file a plan with the rangers indicating the
campgrounds they expect to use each night. This serves to make sure
campers' plans are consistent with party-size and duration-of-stay
limits on campgrounds (and reality), and to help the park service
estimate campground usage. They don't care if you change your mind
along the way (they expect that to happen), and only ask that campers
let them know where you actually stayed before leaving. Special
permits and reservations are required for groups of 7-10, for off-trail
hikers, and for canoeists camping outside of designated campgrounds.
Because noise levels go up geometrically as the size of camping parties
increase, groups of more than 10 must split up and hike/camp
separately. Fishing in Lake Superior and connected waters requires a
paid license from the state; inland lakes have no licensing
requirement. Hunting is not permitted.
Get around
All transportation is on foot, by canoe or kayak, or by motorboat.
Except for a few wide, flat trails at the ports for NPS equipment, and
a little pavement in the Snug Harbor area, there are no roads on the
island. Mountain bikes and wheeled portage devices are not permitted.
As a wilderness area, the park does not meet modern
expectations of accessibility. You need to be able to walk on rough
surfaces and steep terrain to get anywhere at all beyond the immediate
vicinity of the ports. At Windigo, even the information office and
store are up a short but steep hill. Wheelchairs are permitted but not
actively accommodated; if you rely on one, you'll find ferry
dis/embarking itself difficult, to say nothing of getting around.
Lakeshore canoeing and sightseeing by boat are the best options for
those with limited mobility. Service animals are permitted, but only
with prior arrangements.
By foot
A 165-mile network of groomed trails connects most areas of the
island. These are unpaved, and only somewhat improved, with exposed
roots and stone common. When crossing "bald" areas of exposed solid
rock, small cairns of stones are piled periodically to mark the route.
In marshy areas, plank walkways have been built to allow passage and
small bridges cross flowing streams.
By paddle
Several of the inland lakes and protected inlets of Lake Superior
are connected by portages ranging from a few dozen feet to a few miles.
Traveling by canoe or kayak obviously won't get you to all parts of the
island (not even the whole shoreline; the northwest coast is generally
considered unsafe, with few places to beach), but it provides a
different way of seeing the park, taking you to some parts the trails
don't reach.
By "taxi"
The Sandy, a "water taxi" operated by Rock Harbor Lodge & Marina, can take you to various places on the east end of the island. (+1 906-337-4993) [6]
It's fairly costly, especially for small groups. For example, a one-way
trip for one or two people to Daisy Farm campground (6 miles away)
costs $91; for a capacity party of six, the fare goes up to $110.
There's only one Sandy and she also provides scheduled sightseeing tours, so reservations are recommended.
By "bus"
The island's "bus" is the Voyageur II. It's one of the
ferries from Grand Portage (see "Get in"), but between crossings
to/from the mainland, it circumnavigates the island, from Windigo to
Snug Harbor along the north side one day, then back to Windigo along
the south side the next, making it useful for getting from one part of
the island to another. During the summer it makes three runs each week,
fewer in early May or late September/October. In addition to the two
main ports, it can do pick-ups and drop-offs at McCargoe Cove and Belle
Isle (north side, Mon/Wed/Sat), and Daisy Farm, Chippewa Harbor, and
Malone Bay (south side, Tue/Thu/Sun), with fares of $40-$52 per person.
It stops at these intermediate docks only by request, and it doesn't
swing by close enough to be flagged down, so book passage in advance.
The Voyageur II allows hikers to thru-hike from Windigo to Rock Harbor (or vice-versa), though a new 2008 service by the Ranger III will also allow this.
By plane
If you simply must get from one end of the island to the
other on a tight schedule, the floatplane service may be able to
accommodate you, but advance notice and reservations are required, and
the fare is a hefty $100 per person; see "Get in".
See
The primary attraction is the wilderness of the island. Although it
isn't "untouched" � Isle Royale has a history of human habitation and
exploitation, and the trails and campgrounds are inherently
non-virginal � the remoteness and careful management of the island have
combined to make for one of the more authentically "wild" experiences
within the National Park system. The trails generally adhere to leave-no-trace principles.
Secondarily, there's the wildlife. Sightings of small
fauna such as squirrels and songbirds are inevitable. Fox, moose, and
loon encounters can be expected if you look for them (and perhaps even
if you don't). Signs of the island's wolf presence (e.g. footprints and
scat) are common, and even nighttime howls or a chance glimpse through
the trees are just common enough to keep hikers' eyes and ears open for
them. Moose commonly use the island's trails as well, and leave plenty
of droppings. When populations are high, moose sightings are fairly
common. Their numbers have been low recently, however.
Depending on solar activity and magnetic field fluctuations, the aurora borealis ("Northern Lights")
is frequently visible. On clear nights, the lack of light pollution
offers outstanding star-gazing opportunities at lakeshores where the
tree cover breaks.
The island's human history is also worth exploring. Surrounding
Isle Royale there are several lighthouses you can visit (e.g. Rock
Harbor lighthouse and Edisen Historic Fishery across the harbor from
Daisy Farm campground, Passage Island lighthouse a few miles beyond
Blake Point into Lake Superior) and shipwrecks (e.g. the cruise ship America
just below the surface at the mouth of Washington Harbor, and few more
several miles farther out). The remains of abandoned copper mines can
be found near McCargoe Cove, on the Island Mine Trail, and near
Windigo.
Do
Fishing is a popular activity, which you can do from motorboats in
the waters surrounding Isle Royale, or from canoes in its inland lakes
(many of which are both secluded and teeming with fish). Angling in the
waters of Lake Superior (including bays) requires a Michigan fishing
license, which you can buy at either port's ranger station. Hunting is not permitted.
A number of ships have met disaster on the rocks and islets
around Isle Royale, making the surrounding waters fairly popular with
shipwreck divers.
Around Snug Harbor
If you're spending the night at Rock Harbor campground, staying at
Rock Harbor Lodge, or a day-tripper from Michigan, there are several
ways to spend your day.
- Guided tours, organized activities, and boat expeditions are
offered; check at the lodge to see what's on the schedule. The boat
trips can take you to some of the more interesting spots along the
southeast end of the island, such as Passage Island and its
lighthouse a few miles into Lake Superior, and several of the sites
mentioned below for self-exploration. The lodge also schedules nightly
informational programs.
- Rent a canoe and paddle Tobin Harbor, a long,
sheltered inlet on the north side of the narrow peninsula the lodge and
ranger station are on. This lightly-developed "historic district" was a
popular site for little cottages a century ago (mostly out near the
Lake), but aside from the periodic floatplane landing/take-off, it's
generally more quiet than "hectic" Rock Harbor, and also provides a
shortcut to the trail leading to the breathtaking view from Lookout Louise up on the Greenstone Ridge. (Sample canoe rental rate: $18 for six hours.)
- Rent a canoe and paddle Rock Harbor. You can work your
way along the shoreline of the harbor, or explore the several barrier
islands that shelter it from Lake Superior. Raspberry Island
(turn slightly to the left when you leave Snug Harbor) has a trail with
closely-placed examples of several of Isle Royale's environments
(including some short but difficult sections of trail). Note that Rock
Harbor offers little shelter from windy weather, paddling between the
barrier islands can expose you to Lake Superior waves, and on the
lakeward side of the islands crashing waves and swells can easily tip
or swamp a canoe. You'll also have to be prepared for periodic wakes
from motorboats zipping the length of the harbor for one reason or
another.
- Rent a boat with an outboard motor and go fishing in Rock Harbor or explore farther afield. East Caribou and Mott Islands
(joined by a footbridge) are home to the sometimes noisy park
headquarters, but also have a 2.5-mile trail that takes you to the Lake
Superior shore on the side away from Rock Harbor. Edisen Fishery and Rock Harbor Lighthouse
(both well-preserved 19th century relics) are across from Daisy Farm
campground at the mouth of Moskey Basin. Just a little west of Edisen
is another former fishery which is the summer residence of wolf/moose
researchers Candy and Rolf Peterson, who have a huge collection of
moose bones in their yard (look for the Norwegian flag).
- To spend a few hours on your feet, hike the Stoll Trail
east out to rocky Scoville Point, passing a pair of old copper-mining
pits along the way. Or take the Rock Harbor Trail a couple miles west
to Suzy's Cave, a "secret passage" formed by the lake when it
was much higher, and return on the Tobin Harbor Trail (or vice versa).
The Tobin Harbor and Stoll Trails are the least difficult, but both
involve some tricky footsteps (Stoll especially) and steep stretches of
trail (Tobin Harbor especially).
- For a longer hike, trek up onto the Greenstone Ridge to Mt. Franklin and back (about 10 miles round-trip). For a vigorous day-long hike, continue west to Mt. Ojibway
and return by way of the Daisy Farm and Rock Harbor Trails (about 15
miles total). No water sources exist on the ridge proper, and it can
reach the low-80s (25+ Celsius) on summer afternoons at higher
altitudes -- pack accordingly.
Around Windigo
Those staying at Washington Creek campground or day-tripping from Minnesota have a few options as well.
- There are two self-guided nature trail loops at Windigo, one less than a mile, the other a little more than a mile.
- Rent a canoe and explore sheltered Washington Harbor, and Grace Harbor at the edge of Lake Superior. These have plenty of shoreline, several islands, and the barely-underwater sunken cruise ship America to explore (best reached by motorboat).
- The old Wendigo Mine ruins (not a typo; 19th-century
spellings are sometimes inconsistent) are a couple miles inland on the
East Huginnin Cove Trail.
- Hiking the first 2 miles of the Feldtmann Ridge Trail
and back provides good views of Washington Harbor, including a short
trail leading to a good overlook. Continuing farther offers less scenic
views, but nice woodland hiking.
- The 9-mile trail loop to Huginnin Cove and back is too
far for a day-visitor to the island, but can be done in 4-6 hours if
you're staying at Washington Creek campground, especially if you leave
your gear behind. It has some difficult, steep stretches of trail.
- Similarly, there's an overlook of the Minong Ridge a little more than 4 miles along that trail.
Backcountry
Be
Although most people come to Isle Royale specifically to hike
the trails or to paddle the lakes, and to enjoy the physical challenge
of it, keep in mind that there's no prize for putting in the most
miles, and no penalty for spending a day or two in one area. It's too
easy to come away from the island remembering little except the view of
your boots on the trail or the bow of your canoe in front of you. Allow
yourself some time without a pack on your back or a paddle in your
hands, and just be on the island.
If you have more than a few hours to spend on the island, head off
into the backcountry. The National Geographic Society publishes a very
good waterproof topographic map of Isle Royale with campgrounds and
trails marked, and mileages for both land and water routes between
sites, a bargain at $10. The book Isle Royale National Park: Foot Trails & Water Routes by Jim DuFresne (ISBN 0898867924)
is an excellent resource, describing the regions and routes in
experienced detail. Both are available at the information offices on
the island, but are most useful for planning your trip before arrival.
The interconnected trails and the portage-linked lakes and bays
make it easy for you to devise your own itinerary among the island's
campgrounds. But there are some common routes that begin and end at the
ports, or at docks accessible by ferry or water taxi:
Hike
- Greenstone Ridge Trail - The Greenstone (named for the
colored mineral-bearing "gemstone" embedded in the rock various places
on the island) runs nearly the full length of the island, along its
spine. Its western end is at the Windigo ranger station and its eastern
end is across Tobin Harbor from the station at Snug Harbor. (Most
hikers go around Tobin Harbor to join the Greenstone at Mount
Franklin.) It ranges from easy to moderately difficult hiking for 5-6
days, and is easy to follow.
- Rock Harbor Trail - A mostly easy-to-moderate hike,
largely along the shore of Rock Harbor and near Moskey Basin, then
inland to Lake Richie. You can do it as an out-and-back hike (4-5
days), as half of a loop with the Greenstone (4-6 days), or get dropped
off at Chippewa Harbor and hike back to Snug Harbor (2-3 days).
- Feldtmann Ridge/Island Mine Trail - Along with a
segment of the Greenstone, these trails form a loop starting and ending
at Windigo. It's moderately difficult hiking both through wetlands and
over ridges, and takes 3-4 days.
- Indian Portage Trail - This series of trails between
and around several interior lakes crosses the island from Chippewa
Harbor to McCargoe Cove. Moderately difficult
up-and-down-and-up-and-down hiking, taking 1-2 days.
- Minong Ridge Trail - This rugged, less-groomed trail
is harder to follow than the others, on a ridge near the north shore,
from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. It takes 4-5 difficult days to hike, the
western-most segment being nearly 13 miles between campgrounds.
Paddle
- Southern lakes - A series of lakes connected by
relatively short portages runs from Chippewa Harbor through Lakes
Whittlesey, Wood, Siskiwit (the island's largest), Intermediate, and
Richie, reaching territory inaccessible by hikers. A 2-mile portage
connects Lake Richie to Moskey Basin and Rock Harbor. (With a special
permit, you can camp anywhere along the shorelines of the canoe-only
lakes.)
- Indian Portage - To cross the island via inland
lakes, there's a 1.2-mile portage from Chippewa Harbor to Lake Richie,
somewhat shorter ones to Lakes LeSage, Livermore, and Chickenbone, then
another hike to McCargoe Cove (roughly following the Indian Portage
Trail). This route crosses the Greenstone Ridge, so those short
portages are difficult.
- Northeast bays - Starting from McCargoe Cove, a
series of channels, coves, and bays on the northeast end of the island
provide a reasonably safe, sheltered route through the waters of Lake
Superior back to Rock Harbor. This route includes a few fairly short
portages, and one heartbreaker up over the Greenstone to avoid a
dangerous paddle around the exposed tip of the island.
- South shore - For experienced sea kayakers only
(canoes aren't safe in the open waters of Superior, and even kayaks are
advised to stick close to shore) you can make your way by a series of
lakeside campgrounds from Rock Harbor to Windigo, portage-free.
Buy
There is a fairly small but well-stocked camp store at Snug Harbor
and an even smaller store at Windigo, both near their respective NPS
information offices. You shouldn't rely on either of them for equipping
or provisioning your trip (due to the high prices if nothing else), but
they provide a handy safety net if you discover you've left something
behind, and they're popular with those just coming off the trail
looking for food that doesn't require the addition of hot water. They
sell dramamine by the dose, for if the ferry ride home looks like it's
going to be rough.
If you want a souvenir from the island, there's an assortment
of t-shirts and sweatshirts in the camp stores, and Rock Harbor Lodge
(which operates the stores) has a small gift shop (sharing space with
the Greenstone Grill) with a larger selection of merchandise, including
knick-knacks, plush animals, and the like... so don't go and help
yourself to things you find in the wilderness. Removing samples of
greenstone from the park is prohibited, and tampering with the wildlife
and environment in general is discouraged. "Take nothing but pictures
and leave nothing but footprints."
Eat
For most visitors, you'll be eating what you pack in, so
freeze-dried meals, candy-nuts-and-granola mixtures, and oatmeal are
your best bet for on the trails/lakes. Fires are prohibited except in
selected sites with community fire rings or grills, so you'll need a
camp stove. Edible berries can be picked and eaten along the trails
when in season. Anglers (especially with watercraft) can add freshly
caught fish to the menu. The camp stores at Snug Harbor and Windigo
have a limited selection of packaged groceries for housekeeping cabins,
freeze-dried food for in the wilderness, and chips/candy for those just
returning.
- Rock Harbor Lodge Dining Room, Rock Harbor Lodge (east end of Snug Harbor), +1 906-337-4993, [7]. Daily 7AM-8:30AM, noon-1:30PM, and 5:30PM-7:30PM. Nothing
too fancy, but pleasant. This is where lodge guests on the
meals-included "American Plan" eat, but "European Plan" guests, cabin
guests, and campers are also welcome (though if you're just coming in
off a week on the trails, buying a shower first would be a nice
courtesy). The lake trout is really fresh, but be prepared to pay
premium prices for the luxury of kitchen-prepared food in the
wilderness. Breakfast $13.50/$9, lunch $16/$11, dinner $30.50/$20 (adult/child).
- Greenstone Grill, Rock Harbor Lodge (east end of Snug Harbor). Simple
fare such as burgers, sandwiches, pizza, coffee, and drinks. Very
reasonbly priced, given the location, and it's so much nicer to hear
the crunch of fresh lettuce and onions on a burger than the crunch of
unreconstituted freeze-dried peas in your beef stew.
- Windigo camp store (farther up the hill from the Windigo information center). Simple cold sandwiches; the only source of prepared food on the west end of the island.
Drink
There is potable water available at the ranger stations at both Snug
Harbor and Windigo and their neighboring campgrounds of Rock Harbor and
Washington Creek. All campgrounds have a natural water supply on-site
or nearby, but these sources should be presumed infected with
parasites, and either filtered or thoroughly boiled before drinking or
cooking. Filters are the best option for drinking water, because that
retains its refreshing coldness, and is also most practical for the
gallon/day or more each person is likely to need. Chemical purification
tablets won't kill the tapeworm eggs that the moose deposit in the
water supply.
Soft drinks are sold at both camp stores. The Greenstone Grill
(see "Eat") also serves a small assortment of mainstream U.S. and
Canadian beers (including Moosehead), and a small but well-chosen
selection of Michigan microbrews. Bring your own liquor to the island
if you wish, but keep in mind that drunken campers disturb both
wildlife and other campers, and alcohol is prohibited at a few
campgrounds. Besides, the last thing you need in the wilderness is
impaired judgment, dehydration, a hangover, and a bottle to carry.
Sleep
Although the park service is exploring options which might offer a
compromise, when staying on Isle Royale you need to choose between cost
and comfort: sleep in your own bag outside for free, or sleep in a bed
indoors and pay the expense of civilized amenities in the wilderness.
Lodging
- Rock Harbor Lodge (east end of Snug Harbor), +1 906-337-4993 summers and +1 270-773-2191 winters (yes, that's a Kentucky area code), [8]. Open Memorial Day through Labor Day. The
only option for those wanting a bed and four walls, the lodge offers
both modest modern hotel rooms overlooking Rock Harbor/Lake Superior,
and modern duplex "housekeeping" cabins inland with nice big
picture-window views of the surrounding trees, all a short stroll from
the dock. $209-$232 (cabin), $215-239
('European plan' room without meals), $336-$360 ('American plan' room
with meals), double occupancy, tax and fees included; peak season is
mid-July to mid-August.
Camping
The vast majority of visitors to Isle Royale stay in the designated
campgrounds maintained by the park service, equivalent to what most
parks call "backcountry" camping... nothing like the half-paved
communal parking lots usually passed off as "campgrounds". Some are
accessible only through the network of trails crossing the island, some
are accessible only by water routes, but many can be reached either
way. The motorboat-accessible campgrounds may not be ideal for hikers
and paddlers trying to get away from civilization. There's no charge
for campgrounds beyond the park visitor fee.
The only amenities at these campgrounds are enclosed pit
toilets... no electricity, showers, or trash cans. Campgrounds on the
shore of Lake Superior usually have picnic tables; inland campgrounds
instead have a some large local logs to sit on. Most campgrounds have
several fairly isolated "individual" sites, clearings big enough for
two 1-to-3-person tents. Shoreline campgrounds usually also have a
small number of three-sided, covered and floored wooden shelters (the
fourth wall is screened), but these can't be reserved, so you need to
bring a weatherproof three-season tent or risk spending the night with
no protection from the clouds (of rain and mosquitoes). For that
matter, the tent sites can't be reserved either, so during times of
heavy use, you might have to share an individual site with
another party. Some campgrounds have larger tent sites for groups of
7-10 campers (located away from the "regular" sites, to reduce the
disturbances such groups produce) which must be reserved. Most
campgrounds have a three-night limit on how long you may stay, and the
most in-demand ones have shorter limits.
The park's campgrounds, from one end to the other: (numbers correspond to locations on map)
- Merrit Lane - all the way out on Blake Point, access in
a narrow channel protected from Superior, 1 tent site, 1 shelter,
accessible by canoe or motorboat (Tobin Harbor).
- Duncan Narrows - in the shadow of Lookout Louise, fire rings, no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Duncan Bay).
- Rock Harbor - the most civilized campground, in the
suburbs of Snug Harbor, drinking water, showers/toilets a short walk
away, one-night limit, 11 tent sites, 9 shelters, accessible by trail
(Rock Harbor, Tobin Harbor), canoe or motorboat (Tobin or Rock Harbor).
- Tooker's Island - on a small but wooded barrier
island in Rock Harbor, no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe
or motorboat (Rock Harbor).
- Duncan Bay - on a nice peninsula sticking into the
bay, fire rings, 1 tent site, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or
motorboat (Duncan Bay).
- Lane Cove - the only trail site on the northeast
bays, 5 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Lane Cove Trail)
or canoe (Lane Cove).
- Three Mile - right on the edge of Rock Harbor,
one-night limit, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites (some right on the
harbor), 8 shelters (on or near the harbor), accessible by trail (Rock
Harbor, Mount Franklin), canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor). Somewhat
busier than most campgrounds as it is a short hike from ferry dock at
Snug Harbor.
- Belle Isle - a former resort site, lovely sunrises, 1 tent site, 6 shelters, fire rings, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Belle Harbor).
- Caribou Island - on one of Rock Harbor's westernmost
barrier islands, community fire ring, 1 tent site, 2 shelters,
accessible by canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor).
- Daisy Farm - a sprawling and often busy crossroads on
Rock Harbor, historically interesting, 3 group and 6 individual tent
sites, 16 shelters, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Daisy Farm, Mount
Ojibway), canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor). There is a ranger resident
here, with informational programs offered many evenings. Good place to
swim when the weather is warm.
- Pickerel Cove - secluded with lots of waterfowl, two-night limit, 1 tent site, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Pickerel Cove).
- Birch Island - in McCargoe Cove but with a view of Superior, 1 tent site, 1 shelter, accessible by canoe or motorboat (McCargoe Cove).
- Moskey Basin - at the scenic cul-du-sac of Rock
Harbor, 2 group and 2 individual tent sites, 6 shelters with great
views of the basin, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Lake Richie),
canoe or motorboat (Moskey Basin).
- Chippewa Harbor - low cliffs overlooking Superior,
good fishing nearby, fire rings, 2 tent sites, 4 shelters, accessible
by trail (Indian Portage), canoe or motorboat (Chippewa Harbor).
- Chickenbone East - quiet, two-night limit, but the
water supply is a short hike away down an hill, and is not particularly
appealing. 1 group and 3 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible
by trail (Greenstone, East Chickenbone) or canoe (Chickenbone Lake).
- McCargoe Cove - a popular moose wading location
across the cove, community fire ring, no alcohol, 3 group and 3
individual tent sites (up the hill from the cove), 6 shelters (most
with views of the water), accessible by trail (Indian Portage, Minong),
canoe or motorboat (McCargoe Cove). The Minong Mine (the best preserved
on the island) is nearby.
- Lake Richie - good fishing from shore, two-night
limit, 2 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by
trail (Lake Richie, Indian Portage) or canoe (Lake Richie).
- Lake Richie Canoe - more good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Lake Richie).
- Chickenbone West - right on the lake with some very
nice views, two-night limit, 3 group and 6 individual sites, no
shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Indian Portage) or canoe
(Chickenbone Lake).
- Intermediate Lake - secluded, rocky shoreline
access, good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters,
accessible by canoe (Intermediate Lake).
- Lake Whittlesey - good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Lake Whittlesey).
- Wood Lake - overlooking the shoreline for good moose
viewing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by
canoe (Wood Lake).
- Todd Harbor - great sunsets into distant Ontario,
sometimes breezy, community fire ring, 3 group and 5 individual sites,
1 shelter, accessible by trail (Minong) or motorboat (Todd Harbor).
There's a mine pit and a cascading creek a short distance to the west.
- Malone Bay - beautiful view and pebble beaches,
ranger station, 2 group tent sites, 5 shelters overlooking Superior,
accessible by trail (Ishpeming), canoe or motorboat (Malone Bay).
- Hatchet Lake - among the birch and thimbleberries
near the lake, two-night limit, 3 group and 5 individual tent sites, no
shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Hatchet Lake).
- Little Todd Harbor - on the shoreline, fire rings,
two-night limit, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters,
accessible by trail (Minong).
- Hay Bay - a safe haven for south-shore boaters, 1 tent site, no shelters, accessible by kayak or motorboat (Hay Bay).
- Lake Desor South - a short climb above the lake
shoreline among the birch and thimbleberry plants, two-night limit, 3
group and 7 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail
(Greenstone).
- Lake Desor North - a long hike from Windigo (or
Little Todd), good view of the lake, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no
shelters, accessible by trail (Minong).
- Siskiwit Bay - warmer with nice beaches, community
fire ring, no alcohol, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites, 2 shelters,
accessible by trail (Feldtmann, Island Mine), kayak or motorboat
(Siskiwit Bay).
- Island Mine - the only campground not by a lake (its
water supply is a stream down the hill a short distance) with a "deep
woods" character, 2 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters,
accessible by trail (Island Mine, near Greenstone).
- Washington Creek - near Windigo, drinking water,
showers/toilets a quarter-mile away, view of a wide creek popular with
moose, 4 group and 5 individual tent sites (most with little privacy),
10 shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Minong, Feldtmann), kayak
or motorboat (Washington Harbor).
- Huginnin Cove - a secluded little cove on the rugged north shore, 5 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Huginnin Cove).
- Beaver Island - no tent sites, 3 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Washington Harbor).
- Feldtmann Lake - on the SW edge of the lake, good
moose viewing, two-night limit, 2 group and 5 individual tent sites, no
shelters, accessible by trail (Feldtmann Ridge) or kayak (Rainbow
Cove).
- Grace Island - no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Grace Harbor).
For those arriving at Snug Harbor, the obvious place to camp the
first and last nights is the Rock Harbor campground, the island's
busiest. If you're eager to get away from what passes for "crowds" on
Isle Royale, Three Mile campground (unsurprisingly about 3 miles away)
is easy to get to. Daisy Farm (another 4 miles) is also within a
partial-day's hike. But keep in mind that you'll be disembarking from a
ferry at the same time as dozens of people with exactly the same idea,
filling that first day's hike with passing and being passed by fellow
travelers, so an afternoon exploring the Snug Harbor area and a night
at Rock Harbor with a more individual hit-the-trail time the next
morning (and your choice of sites when you arrive) may be more to your
liking. Lane Cove is a reasonable distance for a first night, but it
requires hiking over the Greenstone Ridge, and it's a dead-end, so
you'll have to backtrack the next day (with a really steep climb back
onto the ridge) to go anywhere else. First-day paddlers can reach the
Tooker's Island or Caribou Island campgrounds on the barrier islands
protecting Rock Harbor.
Arrivals at Windigo typically spend the first and last nights
at the Washington Creek campground. An alternative is to hike north to
Huginnin Cove (3 miles), but this detour loop will add about 3 miles of
up-and-down hiking to the beginning of the next day's hike, regardless
of which direction you're going next. Or set out right away on the
Greenstone and make your way to Island Mine campground (7 miles, mostly
up hill). Beaver Island and Grace Island campgrounds can be reached by
canoe or kayak.
From there, it's up to you.
Backcountry
True backcountry camping � hiking off the trails and camping in
non-designated sites � is allowed only with a special "cross-country"
camping permit. It's advised only for experienced wilderness hikers due
to the frequent ruggedness of the terrain and difficulty navigating in
mostly-wooded areas.
Stay safe
The Brothers Grimm gave wolves a very unfair portrayal; unless you
are a young or feeble moose, you're in no danger from them. Although
they've gotten a little less furtive lately as they look harder for
moose (whose numbers have gone down substantially), they're still very
good at avoiding humans, and even mere sightings are still
infrequent. On the other hand, moose can be very dangerous if provoked
(there's a reason wolves only go after the weak ones, and do so in
packs), especially if you get between a mother and her calf, or if you
confront a bull during mating season. But otherwise they're nothing to
be afraid of, and will probably regard you the same way.
The greatest danger is your own foolishness: pushing yourself
too hard, or ignoring basic principles of wilderness health and safety
(e.g. keeping dry, water sanitation, floatation devices on the water).
Canoeing, kayaking, or swimming in Lake Superior can be particularly
hazardous due to the potential roughness of the water (it's more like a
freshwater sea than a mere lake) and the hypothermia-inducing
temperature just below the surface year-round.
The water from Lake Superior is safe enough when filtered, but
some streams and inland lake sources are not as wholesome. Good
filtration (not iodine tablets) is a must and some water from
marshlands may need to be pre-filtered to prevent clogging. The taller
ridges can reach 80+ degrees on a warm summer's day, and there are no
water sources up there. Plan ahead and bring plenty of water, as the
ridge trails are a strenuous hike. Nothing is worse than being
exhausted and out of water 1000 feet above Lake Superior!
If you're injured, there's limited medical assistance
available on the island, and it's going to have a difficult time
getting to you in the backcountry. There are ranger stations at Snug
Harbor, Windigo, Malone Bay (on the south shore), and Amygdaloid Island
(off the northeast shore), and a ranger resident at Daisy Farm, any of
which can radio for help and arrange for helicopter transport to the
mainland (at your expense) for professional medical care.
Surprisingly, there is a theft problem at Isle Royale
campgrounds, and the culprits inevitably escape prosecution on the
grounds that they are not human. Foxes are the worst culprits,
potentially stealing anything left unattended, including boots,
socks, and even cameras. Squirrels � especially those who've had a
previous taste of the exotic foods humans eat � will brazenly steal
food from your hand when your head is turned (not much caring if they
bite you in the process), or chew through your backpack if they catch a
whiff of such ambrosia inside. Double-plastic-bagging and vigilance are
advised. This is important both for your own well-being and that of the
animals; camp foxes quickly become dependent on human food and stop
hunting, which is both nutritionally bad for them and leaves them to starve when the humans all go away for the long winter.
Contact
The phone numbers included here are useful for planning your
trip, not for calling from Isle Royale, where phone service is almost
non-existent. At Snug Harbor there's a cellular pay phone on an
amplified antenna for "Yeah, Mom, I made it back to the ranger station"
calls (credit cards only; $5 for the first two minutes). Mobile phones
won't work unless you're on a ridge or a part of the island close to
Thunder Bay, Ontario, where maybe you'll get a weak signal. You
can bring your phone along "for emergencies", but the odds of it
working when you want it to are slim enough to make it just a half
pound of dead weight in your pack. Don't even think about trying to blog your trip.
Information here (unless otherwise specified) are licenced
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