Name: Heaphy Track
Location:
What is it:
The Heaphy Track, located in Kahurangi National Park at the north-west corner of the South Island, is the longest of the DOC Great Walks. For 82 kilometres the track crosses the Park’s range of landscapes, starting from the junction of the Brown and Aorere Rivers, over expansive tussock downs to the lush forests, nikau palms and roaring seas of the West Coast.
The track is classified as a walking track, being well formed and suitable for fit, well-equipped people. All rivers and major streams are bridged. The track takes four to six days to complete. There are huts and campsites where you can stay for a fee.
The nearest towns that cater for trampers are Nelson, Takaka, Westport and Karamea. Karamea has an information centre, petrol station, accommodation, cafés and restaurants, supermarket and general store, and a range of transport options. Takaka has an i-Site, petrol stations, supermarket, small sport/camping and hardware stores as well as cafés and accommodation. Collingwood has a petrol station, small grocery store, shops, cafés, a pub and accommodation.
This is an east to west description of the track. The times quoted are only approximate.
Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut
Time: 5 hr
Distance: 17 km
Brown Hut has bunk space for 16. About 180 metres upstream from the hut, cross the bridge over the Brown River, then a grass flat, before winding up a well-defined track and into the bush.
The track climbs gradually, following a route once surveyed for a road. After 3 hours 30 minutes, Aorere shelter is reached. From here, the Aorere Valley is seen extending northwards and on clear days it is possible to see Mt Taranaki/Egmont. Thirty minutes before Perry Saddle Hut, a short track leads to a viewpoint at Flanagans Corner. At 915 metres, this is the highest point on the track.
Perry Saddle Hut is 880 metres above sea level and has bunk accommodation for 24. Near the hut in Gorge Creek is a deep but cold pool, popular for bathing.
Perry Saddle to Gouland Downs Hut
Time: 2 hr
Distance: 8 km
From Perry Saddle Hut, cross Perry Saddle and sidle above Perry Creek through tussock clearings and patches of beech. Soon the valley widens and the track climbs a small rise to where the open downs are revealed stretching out to the west.
The track meanders easily down to Cave Brook, passing the famed pole to which trampers have tied old boots over the years. Just beyond the brook is Gouland Downs Hut, which has 8 bunks.
Nearby, a small patch of beech grows on a limestone outcrop which has escaped erosion. This area is worth exploring. The track crosses one of several limestone arches, which are the remnants of old caves. Nearby, a small waterfall flows out of another cave passage.
Gouland Downs Hut to Saxon Hut
Time: 1 hr 30 min
Distance: 5 km
Beyond Gouland Downs Hut the track is relatively level as it crosses the northern part of Gouland Downs. The tussock country and riverbeds make for good exploring but, when the mist lowers, the featureless downs can be confusing and it is easy to become disorientated.
Saxon Hut, nestled near the end of the downs, is the newest on the track. It sleeps 16 and is named after John Saxon, who surveyed the track in 1886.
Saxon Hut to James Mackay Hut
Time: 3 hr
Distance: 14 km
From Saxon Hut the track drops slightly to grassy flats beside the Saxon River. This short section of the journey floods in extremely wet conditions, making it impassable and quite dangerous. Walkers should wait for the water to recede.
After the flats, the track climbs gently up to a broad ridge, which joins Gouland Downs to Mackay Downs and marks the boundary between Nelson and the West Coast.
The track now skirts the edge of Mackay Downs to James Mackay Hut, winding in and out of several small streams, just before they tumble off the downs and fall to the Heaphy River on the left. The vegetation is alternately tussock field and shrub-fringed patches of beech forest. Small creeks dissect the landscape and the pink granite sparkles and crunches beneath your feet.
The hut is named after the explorer who first pressed for a bridle track to be established between Collingwood and the West Coast. It has 26 bunks and is situated just above the track on an open terrace. The Tasman Sea and Heaphy River mouth can be seen from here, 1 5km to the west and 750 metres below.
James Mackay Hut to Lewis Hut
Time: 3 hr 30 min
Distance: 13.5 km
Beyond James Mackay Hut, the downs landscape ends and a gradual descent to the Heaphy River begins. The track is through beech forest at first but soon the richer and taller forest typical of the West Coast becomes dominant.
Occasional tantalising glimpses of the Heaphy River below are seen through the forest; the sounds of rushing water grow louder and suddenly the hut is reached, at the junction of the Heaphy River with the smaller Lewis River.
Sandflies and the first nikau palms appear around Lewis Hut, which sleeps 20. Charles Lewis was a Collingwood surveyor who, in the 1880s, was first to investigate Mackay’s proposed bridle route.
Lewis Hut to Heaphy Hut
Time: 2 hr 30 min
Distance: 8 km
From Lewis Hut, head back up the track for a short distance to a junction. Turn left and walk over a ridge to a footbridge. Cross the Lewis River here, then follow the right bank of the Heaphy River to another bridge.The track crosses the Heaphy here and continues along the left bank to the river mouth through a forest of kahikatea, rimu and rata. Glossy-leaved shrubs perch precariously in the tall trees, flourishing in the abundant light and extracting nutrients from humus (accumulated plant debris) in their hosts’ branches.
In dry spells, the sluggish river meanders along peacefully. Towards the mouth, nikau palms become more common, the sea’s incessant roaring grows louder and, in some conditions, small waves can be seen running up-river.
Heaphy Hut is situated close to the river bank and far enough back from the sea to be spared the worst of the winds. It accommodates 30.
The river mouth is at the junction of two pounamu (greenstone) trails and archaeological work has uncovered evidence of occupation by Maori that extends back 500 years. In 1905, an extensive European settlement was surveyed in the lower valley, but it was never built.
Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai River Mouth
Time: 5 hr
Distance: 16.5 km
The Heaphy River mouth is an exciting place. The river surges out through a narrow gap into the sea; in-coming waves halt the flow and the churning of salt and fresh waters is spectacular.
The track south to Kohaihai is through forest although beach walking is possible in some places. Some of the small streams are not bridged and can be dangerous after heavy rain. The forest has rata and karaka trees, many vines and groves of nikau palms. Be careful of the stinging nettle that grows in places.
Just beyond Katipo Creek is Crayfish Point (also known as Koura Point). The sea here is very dangerous. Use the high tide track unless you are there within two hours either side of low tide. There are tide tables in Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai Shelter.
Soon Scotts Beach is reached, the clearing here is a good spot to rest before climbing over Kohaihai Saddle and down through wind-blasted shrubs to a bridge across the Kohaihai River. The track follows the riverbank for 400 metres to Kohaihai carpark where there is a shelter and phone.
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