The Great Barrier Reef is to Australia what rolling savannahs and game parks are to Africa, and is equally subject to the
corniest of representations. There's so little relationship to life above the surface that distinctions normally taken for granted -
such as that between animal, plant and plain rock - seem blurred, while the respective roles of observer and observed are constantly
challenged by shoals of curious fish following you about.
The Australians call it the Eighth Wonder of the World, but that may actually be an understatement. The Great Barrier Reef is the only
living organism on the planet that's visible from outer space.
Beginning with Lady Elliot Island, out from
Bundaberg, and extending
2300km north to New Guinea, the Barrier Reef follows the outer
edge of Australia's continental plate, running closer to land
as it moves north; while it's 300km to the main body from Gladstone,
Cairns is barely 50km distant from the reef. Far from being a
continuous, unified structure, the nature of the reef also changes
along its length - cays are a particular feature of the southern
reef; the middle sections comprise intricate mazes of alternately
packed and scattered coral formations; continental islands everywhere
become ringed by fringing reefs; and northern section form long
ribbons. All of it however, was built by one animal - the tiny
coral polyp. Simply organisms, related to sea anemones, polyps
huddle together like building blocks into modular colonies - corals
- which form the framework o the reef's ecology by providing food,
shelter and hunting grounds for larger, more mobile species. Around
their walls and canyons flow a bewildering assortment of creatures:
large rays and turtles "fly" effortlessly by, fish dodge between
caves and coral branches, snails sift the sand for edible, and
brightly coloured nudibranchs dance above rocks.
The reef is administered by the Marine Parks Authority, which
battles against or at least gauges, the effects of over fishing,
pollution and tourism. The most obvious signs of damage at popular
locations - broken and dead coral - are due to the volume of visitors,
caused by people bumping against outcrops. In order to minimize
damage visitors should take care not to stand on shallow reefs
when snorkelling, and always avoid touching coral; even if you
don't break ff branches, you'll certainly crush the delicate polyps.
Scuba diving is the best way to come to grips with the reef, and dive course are on offer right along the coast. In tourist
centres such as Airlie Beach or Cairns, businesses
are geared to processing as many students in as short a time as possible; for a more relaxed atmosphere, you may be better off
learning away from these places and diving them once you are qualified.
Snorkelling is a good alternative to diving: you can pick up the basics in five minutes and with a little practice the only thing
you sacrifice is the extended dive time that a tank allows.
Reef Hazards
Coral and shell cuts become badly infected if not treated immediately
by removing any fragments and dousing with antiseptic. Some corals
can also give you a nasty sting. Shore divers might encounter
dangerous jellyfish but those found at the reef aren't life threatening,
though they can cause nausea and raise a painful weal. Conical
cone shells are home to a fish-eating snail armed with a poisonous
barb which has caused fatalities. Similarly, the shy, small, blue-ringed
octopus has a fatal bite and should never be handled. Stonefish
are camouflaged so that they're almost immobile, protected from
attack by a series of poisonous spines along their back. Of the
larger animals, rays are timid, flattened fish with a sharp spine
capable of causing deep wounds. At the reef, the most commonly
encountered sharks are the black-tip or white-tip varieties and
the bottom-dwelling carpet shark, or wobbegong - all of these
are inoffensive unless hassled.
GETTING THERE
Cairns International Airport is served by Qantas, Continental, and Air New Zealand, among other lines.
If you're gonna travel abroad, make sure you are prepared... take it from us, travel insurance is an absolute must!
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